Wouldn't you like to stop an ugly problem before it becomes a vicious habit? Some of these techniques will also work on older dogs that are already biting seriously. Remember this, however: an older dog who has bitten is likely to get more aggressive temporarily before he gives up and becomes the darling you've dreamed of. As a professional trainer, I always feel it's worth a try to stop biting before giving up and putting a dog to sleep. But be prepared, physically and emotionally, for him to come on stronger at first. The rule of thumb is this: you must end up the winner… in each session. If he growls and you correct him, you must continue to correct him until he stops growling at you. If you don't, he will know that you have backed down, and then, my friend, it's all over. With an entrenched biting problem, it might be worth seeking the help of a professional. Following the twelve tips in this article, the problem should never arise in the first place.
1. NIP NIPPING IN THE BUD
Nipping is the forerunner of biting if it goes unchecked. Yes, your puppy is teething and needs to chew. But you don't want him to get the idea that human flesh belongs in his mouth. Even if his nips are "loving" and gentle at first, he's learning a bad lesson. As he grows older, bigger and more aggressive - a natural part of his growing up - his bites will become harder and harder. Play it safe and stop him now while he's small. Try a firm "NO". If he nips again, give him a slap under his chin and say "NO" as you do it. Moderate the force you use to his size. If he's a Maltese, flick your finger under his chin. If your "puppy" is a full blown bully of a Doberman, slap upward with all your might. You're in more danger of breaking than he is, so do it and break a bad habit before it is too late.
2. USE YOUR NOODLE - USE HIS LEASH
The leash is your training equipment and should be respected as such by your dog. He should not chomp on it, play with it or drag it around the house. When training him (you are training, of course!), he learns that when his leash is on, you can make corrections. If your little biter is no longer a puppy but still pintsized, correct him for nipping or biting by tossing him to the left, the right, and back again using a short leash. Say "NO" as you do it. This will remind him of the shaking he got from his mom when he was a bad puppy, and will convince him of the seriousness of his crime. It's also safer for you, particularly with small dog, than a slap under the chin.
3. NEWSPAPERS ARE FOR KINDLING
Read your Sunday paper and then toss it into the fireplace. Or save it for the Boy Scouts recycling drive. But whatever else you do, don't use a rolled up newspaper to hit your dog. When agitating a dog for protection training, the trainer may use a stick or rag to provoke the dog. Your rolled newspaper can have the same effect. If your dog needs a whack (he may, sometimes), use your hand. Your hand will praise him and it may correct him. But hold off on hitting as much as possible. It is an inappropriate correction for housebreaking and normal disobedience, especially with a puppy. There are softer, better ways that work.
4. "NO" AND "OK" WITH FOOD
Food is sometimes the inspiration for biting problems. In the wild, canine types snarl, growl and bite to defend their portions. But you supply all the chow your darling needs. He doesn't need to defend his bowl and bone. Begin by telling him "OK" whenever he gets something to eat. After a week or so, hold out a dog biscuit and if he tries to take it, tell him "NO". At the point where you get him to resist it and wait, tell him "OK" and let him have it. Furthermore, praise him for taking it at the right time. Teach him that he cannot have food until he hears the magic work "OK". Practice with a biscuit or his food dish no more than once a week. Too much fooling with this good exercise can make him crazy. He'll never know when he can have what he sees or keep what you give him. So an occasional "NO" is in order and a daily "OK" whenever he's fed or gets a treat.
5. "ENOUGH"
This unusual and subtle command is a winner. "No" means what you are doing is wrong. Never do it again. "Enough" means that what you are doing was OK, but it no longer is. Too complicated for a dog? Not by a long shot. It can be used to stop wildness, excessive barking and roughhousing. It is an excellent tool in biting prevention. It will make your dog look classier than Lassie. Teach it primarily through the tone of your voice. If you need to, physically take hold of your dog and stop him from whatever he's doing, saying "Enough". Try it. You'll love it.
6. LIMIT ROUGHHOUSING
I can't in good conscience tell you never to roughhouse with your dog. If it turns you on, do it, but not before he learns "enough", nor before you can sense when it's time to stop. Rough play should not include your puppy biting your arm, pulling on your clothes, or any form of tug of war. It should never be done by children. Don't let the kids tease your dog or swing their hands in front of his face. A little sane horseplay is great for dogs and masters. Bud don't do it to the point where your dog gets carried away and loses his hairy head. That's when biting can occur. When you play with your dog, play it smart.
7. EXPOSURE TO THE WORLD
If you stayed home all the time, you'd be depressed, bored, and you'd probably go bananas. Your dog won't show it the way you would, but believe me, he's bored too. Worse than that, the lack of exposure to the world he lives in makes him afraid. Imagine if one day you went for a walk and everything you saw was strange to you . . . funny things sped by in the street, strange animals of all sizes loomed up before you, you were plunked into the middle of a huge crowd. Some biting problems come from fear. Those that are genetic are another story, but some fear problems come from lack of exposure. Take your pooch for a stroll, out of the yard, off the block, around town. He's a doll. Why not show him off! He'll thank you in ways you can't imagine. He'll be more sure of himself, less fearful, more poised and confident. You'll both look forward to these outings.
8. APPROPRIATE PRAISE
Always encourage behavior you want repeated by praising your dog. He's a simple soul and will respond marvelously to this simple device. Often I've seen people try to "calm" an aggressive dog by petting and soft talk - this is inappropriate praise. The results are exactly opposite to what you want. Only praise your dog when you're sure he's doing what he should be doing. Use an obedience command such as the down-stay to calm him when he's wild.
9. APPROPRIATE CORRECTION
Like you, I melt when a soft, furry creature gives me a soulful look with limpid, shining eyes. But yes, I can yank a leash with the best of you, and yes, I can hit a dog in the chops when necessary. I spend a good deal of my time getting jumped on, yanked, nipped, scratched, bumped and even bitten. Once or twice per dog, When your perfect angel pulls your pants, thumps you in the chest, drags you down the street or teethes on your hands, correct him. "No." said firmly and seriously, works wonders with canines. So does an appropriate whack under the chin (an uppercut) or a good shaking on the leash. If you don't clearly and strongly correct bad behavior, it will continue. Problems don't go away by themselves. They get corrected or they grow worse. Your dog's nature as a pack animal ensures this. Either you're the boss . . . or he is. So praise him when he's good and correct him when he isn't. Here is the key to a well behaved dog who will never become a biter.
10. TEACH HIM HIS LIMITS
If you want the kind of dog who can go anywhere with you, will be trustworthy with children and who will never, never humiliate you by growling at a judge, teach him his limits when he's young. The secret here is to end on a positive note whenever possible. It makes it easier on you and on Fido. No, you can't chew my couch but yes, you can chew your bone. No, you can't relieve yourself indoors but yes, you can outdoors. No, you can't nip my hand but yes, you can gnaw on your toys. Round it out, make it complete. Replace a No No with a resounding Yes Yes. It's a happier, saner way to teach limits than by saying nothing but No all day long.
11. THE LONG DOWN-STAY
Surprised? This command is a lifesaver, a gold mine, a dog's best friend. Many "well trained" dogs are cleverly humoring their proud owners. That's why some dogs who know all the basic commands still become bullies and biters. Their thinking goes like this: "OK, now he wants me to lie down. That was long enough. Now I think I'll go play with the cat." Many owners are so thrilled with the one minute sit stay and the three minute down that they never get beyond it. Or they are so proud of a down with no distractions that they never work for a down at the National Cat Show. To my mind, a dog that won't stay put where you want him to, when you want him to, and for as long as you want him to is not a trained dog. Build the down-stay so that your dog will do it for one hour. Cruel? I'd love someone to put me on a long down-stay after a hard day's work! If he's bored, he can go to sleep. He probably will. The long down stay will convince your dog that you are in control. It is a gentle way of getting an important point across. It will serve you well when your dog goes visiting with you, has a long wait at the dog show or is stuck waiting at the vet's on a busy Saturday. It can be the instrument to firm up all the rest of his training. It's the easy dark horse winner of this whole list.
12. A STITCH IN TIME
No surprises here. You could write this paragraph yourself because while you're saying, "he's too cute", or "She's too small", you know better. Don't wait until you have to call in the Marines. Do what's necessary now. Formal obedience work shouldn't begin until your puppy is four months old, six for group training. But sane play, teaching house manners, showing limits and stopping nipping should take place much earlier. A good, clear, loving but unsentimental look at your puppy will tell you what he can absorb and what he can't. Dogs aren't born bad. Given half a chance, your puppy can grow up to be the solid, gentle trustworthy and reliable dog you want. And he'll love you all the more for educating him. (Reprinted from TOP DOBE Magazine, Inc., July/August 1977, Spring Valley, NY by kind permission.)
DOG OBEDIENCE
Probably the one factor that will most influence your future relationship with your dog is his manners. A well-trained dog is a pleasure to live with; he will happily come when called, walk beside you on a leash instead of pulling you all over town, and will politely greet guests instead of jumping on them. He will bark to warn you of approaching strangers but will not bark all day or night, disturbing the neighborhood. He won't steal food from the coffee table, countertop, or trash can. He will lie quietly in his bed while you are having a dinner party. He will allow you to groom him, clip his nails, and clean his ears. He will be a dog who is invited anywhere because he is so well behaved. He will be the dog who is always welcome at the veterinarian's office because he is a pleasure to examine and treat.
The first step to a well-trained dog is to understand a little about dog behavior. In the wild, dogs are pack animals. In every pack, there is one member who is dominant to all others. When you bring a dog home, your family becomes the pack. It is crucial at this time that you establish yourself to be the dominant one. Under no circumstances should you ever let the dog assume this position. From the time you bring your puppy home, you should teach him that you are the boss. This means that while you are showering him with love and attention, you should also give him gentle guidance to let him know what you expect of him. The most important point to point to remember is that no dog is a behavior problem when he is 7-8 weeks old. But if you wait until you have a misbehaving six-month old, you'll have your work cut out for you.
The next step is the training itself. The first thing for you to do is to read a good book about puppy training. An excellent choice is Mother Knows Best by Carol Benjamin (Howell Publishers). Your local bookstore should be able to order it for you. In addition, several dog training schools offer Puppy Kindergarten classes for puppies that are 8-16 weeks old. Early socialization begins here, and the new dog owner is helped through the first difficult weeks of dog ownership. Often severe behavior problems can be avoided if they are detected early and nipped in the bud.
The next very important step is formal obedience lessons. No matter how good you may be at teaching basic commands, and even if you have no interest in having your dog learn specific obedience exercises, dog school should be a valuable experience for you both. First of all, your dog will learn how to learn, to listen more, and to pay attention to you. He will do all this with other people and dogs working all around him. In addition, you will have the benefit of a professional dog trainer's experience and expertise, and you'll have all the other students and dogs to compare yourself to.
Choosing a dog school can be like choosing anything else; it is important to select the one that best suits you and your dog. In general, it is a good idea to go and observe before you sign up. Make sure that the class is not too big, and that the instructor is respected and in control. There are several non-profit dog training clubs in this area composed of people who do competitive obedience training as a hobby. Most of these clubs offer beginner's training classes that are taught by a professional dog trainer. These are usually of a high caliber, since the instructors have had to prove themselves to other people who train dogs. In addition, many private trainers offer group classes, individual instruction, and will often train your dog for you if necessary.
A TRAINER'S DOZEN TO PREVENT BITING by Carol Benjamin
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